Hello, Just joined the skidsteer forum mainly because I am haveing problems with my 542b. for the last week or two it would be running and then just die, it would restart but repeat. Has got to the point where it will just start then die. Had no spark from coil, so I did a resistance check on the primary and secondary windings. On the primary I had apx 2 ohms and on the secondary 3k ohms. best I could tell the 3k should have been more like 10k. First I called Bobcat and they told me to go to NAPA for a generic coil. They could not tell me if I needed a coil for an internal or external resistor. I took a shot in the dark and got one with an internal resistor. There was no lable on the old one so it was a guess. Talking with a coworker last night he suggested that because I have just less than 10vdc on the hot side of the coil it needed a coil that would use an external resistor. I could go to napa and just get another coil, but don't want to toss $30.00 down the drain. It also seams like the ground side of the coil has an open, I did a resistance check on the wire and it is open to ground. I jumpered that wire to ground and had no change. I called bobcat about a schematic for the wiring and there only option was to order a manual at $80+ and they had no idea when it would come in or I could take it in. I really feel like I can fix this I just need a wiring schematic for the Ford industrial engine that powers it. Believe it is a 1.1L 25hp engine. Thank you John Cooper
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OldMachinist
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Here's the wiring diagram for the Ford powered 642/742 it should be the same.
It looks like there may be two wires to the + side of the coil one applies full voltage during starting and the other ether is a resistance wire or has a restistor on it.
It looks like there may be two wires to the + side of the coil one applies full voltage during starting and the other ether is a resistance wire or has a restistor on it.
OldMachinist
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I'd also replace the points and condensor because with a bad condensor it run sometimes until it gets hot and then it will shut down. After it cools down it will start again.
Not 100% sure but believe it has electronic ignition. Going to revisit the less than 10vdc at the + side of the coil, saw one diagram online that showed it should have had a constant 12vdc at the coil. Thanks for the info, will open up the distributor in the morning and take a look to see what I really have. Thanks John
An update so to speak It is an electronic ignition system. The ground is pulsed through a module on the side of the distributor. Did a test where you have a lamp connected between the hot and ground of the coil connections and crank to see if light lights up, it didn't. My conclusion is that the mod is cooked. I checked wires back to the mod from the coil and all are fine. Now my problem is finding a mod. Bobcat doesnt stock it any more, the old number is 6654344 there current solution is to change dist, wiring harness and something else to the tune of $1300.00. Have a Bosch Part number of 1 227 022 018 and have pictures and suppliers from china, but have to order 100 of them. That would be cheaper than Bobcats fix though. Going to try the Ford Industrial parts people and see if that gets me anything. Is there a source for the old bobcat number? thanks John
Got one on order http://www.powertechengines.com/index.html These guys are the greatest, very helpful and knowlagable. Don was a pleasure to deal with John
Almost to my whits end. Got mod, installed, no spark Checked coil in dist. spec is 1000 - 1200 ohms rite at 1040 Thinking broken dist, or something inside. Driving me crazy for sure John
Being electronic ignition, its totally possible the module in the distributor is bad.... These are the times a coil, points and condensor is so much better.
I hope you work it out.... Sorry i can't give any advise, never worked on one of these.
Is this a inline 4 cyl? If so do a search for " Formula Ford " , " Kent " , " Cortina ", English Ford " These motors are popular in entry level sports car racing ( Indy type looking cars ) , Kent is what the motor was called , Cortina was one of the cars that used it. Point type distributors are common cast offs in the Formula Ford now that electronic is legal. There are 2 versions of point type used Lucas ( usually black dist cap ) and Bosch. The Bosch unit ( usually brown dist cap ) looks like a air cooled VW , Volvo , SAAB, Mercedes dist.
The late 70's Ford Fiesta ( popular in the USA and world wide) used a Motorcraft electronic distributor ( usually a blue dist cap ) and a " Blue " grommet ford ignition box, these still turn up from time to time.
If you are interested in racing, search for " Cosworth Ford ". The Kent engine was pretty much the English version small block Chevy in the 60's with the Cosworth built engines reaching silly turbo HP from 1.6 L. These motors were used in full sized Indy cars / F1 up until the 80's.
The engine is the ford VSG-411 Inline 4 cyl with electronic ignition. I have replaced the ignition module, checked the resistance on the coil in the dist. Still no spark. Hope to take another look at it and see if the dist. is even turning. It would start and run for a short time then restart without issue and die again. Now it will not start at all. Thanks John
Yep, that motor is a Kent ( the 1.1 and 1.3 while common in Europe, never made their way to a USA car, the 1.6 was 1970-71 thin bumper Pinto ) Are you checking the spark at the coil wire? Sometimes the rotor will burn through causing loss of spark at the plugs or with a Bosch distributor, the internal resistor in the rotor can fail. Also, the carbon button under the distributor cap can burn away.
Yes, checking spark out of coil. If I have 12v to the coil and ground out the other side I can get a weak spark, but not with everything hooked up.
bbobcat475
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There is a sensor on the right side of the engine that gives module ignition timing. I've seen them vibrate off when plastic gets hot and breaks connector. I would check that connection and also the sensor.
jcoop, was wondering if you figured out the problem, I'm having the same problem with a motor in a boat. Done the same thing u done with no results was hoping you can send e-mail or post what u found. thanks Bubba
I know this is a very old post but I wanted to say I had the same problem. Replaced everything I could think of except the "Distributor".
My cousin has worked on motors since in the army in 1969 and he looked at it and said he would bet it was the ENGINE SPEED SENSOR on the rear right of the engine. It is shown on page 7-15c in my service manual.
I told him I had already replaced it but he insisted I get another one.
Turns out I got a bad one from the factory and that was the problem the whole time. 18 months of messing around, 2 trips to the Bobcat dealer, and lots of pulling hair and it was the second thing I originally replaced.
Dealer Didn't have a clue...if they can't plug it in to a computer and have them tell you what to do they don't know how to work on them these days.
My cousin has worked on motors since in the army in 1969 and he looked at it and said he would bet it was the ENGINE SPEED SENSOR on the rear right of the engine. It is shown on page 7-15c in my service manual.
I told him I had already replaced it but he insisted I get another one.
Turns out I got a bad one from the factory and that was the problem the whole time. 18 months of messing around, 2 trips to the Bobcat dealer, and lots of pulling hair and it was the second thing I originally replaced.
Dealer Didn't have a clue...if they can't plug it in to a computer and have them tell you what to do they don't know how to work on them these days.
